Portrait Lighting Guide

Quick Answer The most universally flattering portrait lighting is loop lighting: place your light source at 45 degrees to the side and slightly above your subject's eye level. This creates a small shadow from the nose on the opposite cheek without harsh contrast. It works for every face shape.

Classic Portrait Lighting Patterns

Five lighting patterns form the foundation of portrait photography. Each creates a distinct mood and flatters different face shapes. Loop lighting creates a small nose shadow angled toward the cheek. Light source at 30-45 degrees to the side, slightly above eye level. The most versatile pattern that works for almost everyone. Rembrandt lighting is identified by the triangle of light on the shadowed cheek. Light at 45 degrees and higher than loop lighting. Named after the painter who used this dramatic look. Creates mood and depth. Butterfly lighting places the light directly in front and above the subject, creating a shadow under the nose shaped like a butterfly. Flattering for high cheekbones, commonly used in glamour and beauty photography. Split lighting illuminates exactly half the face, with the other half in shadow. Light at 90 degrees to the side. Creates the most dramatic, moody portraits. Broad vs. short lighting isn't a pattern but a modifier. Broad lighting illuminates the side of the face closest to camera (fuller look). Short lighting illuminates the side away from camera (slimming effect).

Start with loop lighting

Place your light 30-45 degrees to one side, slightly above eye level. Watch the nose shadow on the cheek.

Adjust for Rembrandt

Raise and move the light further to the side until a triangle of light appears on the shadow-side cheek.

Try butterfly for glamour

Move the light directly in front and above, angled down. Look for the butterfly shadow under the nose.

Split for drama

Move the light to 90 degrees for half-face illumination. Powerful for artistic and editorial portraits.

Natural Light Portrait Techniques

Natural light produces beautiful portraits without any equipment. The key is knowing where to find good light and how to position your subject. Open shade is the most reliable natural light for portraits. The edge of a building shadow, under a porch overhang, or in a large doorway facing away from direct sun. Light is soft, even, and flattering. Window light indoors creates studio-quality portraits. Position your subject facing a large window, slightly turned so the light falls across the face at an angle. A white wall or reflector on the shadow side fills in the contrast. Golden hour light wraps faces in warm tones with long, soft shadows. Position subjects with the sun slightly behind them for a backlit glow, then use a reflector to bounce light back onto the face. Avoid overhead midday sun for portraits. It creates dark eye sockets (raccoon eyes), harsh nose shadows, and unflattering chin shadows. If you must shoot midday, find shade.

Find open shade

Look for covered areas that face open sky: building edges, porches, garage openings. Even, soft light.

Position at a window

Subject faces the window at 30-45 degrees. This creates natural loop or Rembrandt lighting.

Use golden hour backlight

Sun slightly behind the subject creates a glow. Use a reflector or phone flashlight for fill on the face.

One-Light Studio Setup

You only need one light to create professional portraits. A single light with a modifier and a reflector produces all five classic lighting patterns. A large softbox or umbrella is the most versatile modifier. Larger light sources produce softer shadows and more flattering results. A 36-inch umbrella is a great starting point. Place your single light at the position for your desired pattern (45 degrees for loop, higher for Rembrandt, in front for butterfly). Add a reflector on the shadow side to control the light ratio. The light ratio is the brightness difference between the lit and shadow sides. A reflector close to the subject gives a 2:1 ratio (subtle shadows). Moving it away or removing it gives a 4:1 ratio (more dramatic). No fill at all gives the highest contrast.

Set up the light

One light with a softbox or umbrella, at 45 degrees to the subject, slightly above eye level.

Add a reflector

White reflector on the shadow side. Closer = more fill (flatter). Farther = less fill (moodier).

Set the power

Start at medium power. Check the exposure. Adjust until skin is well-exposed without blowing highlights.

Choosing Lighting for Different Face Shapes

Different lighting patterns flatter different face shapes. Matching the pattern to the subject produces the most flattering portraits. Round faces benefit from short lighting (illuminating the side farther from camera) with Rembrandt or split patterns. The shadow narrows the face visually. Thin or narrow faces benefit from broad lighting (illuminating the side closer to camera). This fills out the face and reduces the appearance of angular features. High cheekbones look stunning with butterfly lighting, which casts shadows under the bones and enhances their structure. Prominent noses are flattered by loop lighting or straight-on butterfly. Avoid Rembrandt or split lighting, which cast large nose shadows. When in doubt, default to loop lighting. It works for virtually every face shape and is forgiving of minor positioning errors.

Assess the face shape

Round, oval, square, thin, or heart-shaped. This guides your lighting choice.

Match the pattern

Round face: short Rembrandt. Thin face: broad loop. High cheekbones: butterfly.

Adjust the ratio

More fill (less shadow) for corporate and friendly looks. Less fill for dramatic and artistic portraits.

Common Portrait Lighting Mistakes

Direct flash on camera is the most common mistake. It eliminates all shadows, creating flat, unflattering light with red-eye. If you must use flash, bounce it off a ceiling or wall. Lighting from below creates a horror movie effect. Unless intentional, always light from above or at eye level. Mixed color temperature from combining window light (blue-ish daylight) with room lights (warm tungsten). Turn off room lights when shooting by windows, or gel your artificial lights to match. Catchlights missing from the eyes means the light isn't positioned correctly. Every portrait needs a bright catchlight in the eyes since it brings life to the image. Adjust the light position until you see it reflected in the eyes. Over-lighting with too many lights creates confusing multiple shadows. Start with one light and add only when needed.

Check the catchlights

Look at the eyes. You should see the light source reflected. If not, adjust the light angle.

Eliminate mixed light

Turn off room lights when using window light. Match all artificial light color temperatures.

Bounce the flash

If using flash, point it at the ceiling or a wall. Direct flash is almost never flattering for portraits.

Fixing Portrait Lighting After the Shoot

Not every portrait is shot in perfect light. AI editing can fix many common lighting problems after the fact. For harsh shadows: 'soften the shadows on the face' or 'reduce the harsh shadow under the nose'. For flat lighting: 'add more dimension to the lighting' or 'create subtle shadows on the left side of the face'. Color cast corrections are common: 'fix the orange/yellow cast from indoor lighting' or 'make the skin tone more natural and neutral'. For dark, underexposed portraits: 'brighten the face while keeping the background dark' targets just the subject.

Fix harsh shadows

'Soften the harsh shadow under the chin' or 'reduce the shadow on the left side of the face'.

Correct color casts

'Fix the yellow/warm color cast on the skin' or 'make the white balance neutral'.

Add dimension

'Add subtle shadow on the left side of the face for more depth' creates studio-like lighting from flat photos.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the most flattering lighting for portraits?

Loop lighting at 30-45 degrees with a large, soft light source. It works for every face shape and creates gentle, flattering shadows. For women, butterfly lighting with a reflector below is the classic beauty look.

Can I get good portrait lighting with just a window?

Yes. A large window is one of the best portrait light sources available. Position your subject at an angle to the window, add a white reflector on the shadow side, and you have a professional one-light studio setup for free.

Why do my portraits have dark eye sockets?

Your light source is too high. Lower it to just above eye level. Dark eye sockets (raccoon eyes) happen when overhead light casts shadows into the eye area. The subject can also tilt their chin up slightly.

How do I light a group portrait?

Use broad, even light. Two lights at 45 degrees on either side, or a very large softbox or umbrella in front and above. The goal is minimal shadow variation across all faces. Outdoors, open shade works perfectly for groups.

What are catchlights and why do they matter?

Catchlights are the reflections of your light source visible in the subject's eyes. They add life and sparkle to portraits. Without catchlights, eyes look dull and lifeless. Position your light so you can see it reflected in the eyes.

Should I use a ring light for portraits?

Ring lights produce flat, shadowless lighting with distinctive circular catchlights. Good for beauty and social media content. Not ideal for traditional portraits because the lack of shadows makes faces look flat and two-dimensional.

How do I avoid shiny skin in portraits?

Use a matte powder on the subject's forehead, nose, and cheeks before shooting. Avoid very close, hard light sources. In editing, use 'reduce the shine on the forehead and nose' for quick fixes.

What background color works best for portraits?

Gray is the most versatile: it can be made lighter or darker with lighting. Black creates drama. White gives a clean, professional look. Colored backgrounds should complement the subject's clothing and skin tone.

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